Zangebak - Finding a Forgotten Memory



Six years ago I became an adult orphan when my mother passed away. For us, our mother was the nurturing soul that pulsated through the family. No matter what your age, when you lose your mother, it is a pain that stays with you as daily life brings its constant reminders of her. And with food being such a central focus of her life, the reminders are many.

Last weekend while at Edgar in Hull I enjoyed a "mini almond cake" with my tea.



Another recent visit to Art-is-in Boulangarie with a friend had me trying their wee 'financier'. A financier is a small French cake usually containing almond flour, crushed or ground almonds, or almond flavoring.



Perhaps trying these similar treats so close together in time was enough of a jolt to excavate a food memory from my childhood that has long been buried. Maybe as much as 30 years? When I was young, we made a treat called zangebaks. They were very almond tasting dense 'cakes' made in muffin tins. The outside had a bit of a crunch to it and the inside a bit chewy.

I shared this jettisoned memory with the good people at Edgar and vowed to comb through my shoebox of old recipe cards to see if I still had this gem. I keep all my active recipes in Mastercook and go to the archives when I want to resurrect the past and officially include it in our repertoire. Many childhood recipes are in Mastercook now but some still remain without attention on 4" x 6" yellowing cards.

Bless my organization skills! I found it. Written out in what I call my 'high school font'. Always block letters. Always using a fountain pen. Although it appears tidy, it is missing some instruction. Like when to include the almond extract. Also missing is the source. I always put the source of the recipe in the top right hand corner. Not so much for attribution in the digital age but as part of the preservation of the recipe's genealogy. Where did this zangebak recipe come from? I assure you my four brothers will not be of help on this one. And again I am reminded of the finality of my mother's passing. No more going to her for details, memories and understanding. No more help in colouring in the finer details of the past. Again I feel the severance of time gone before me and my time now.



My father was the one who regularly made requests for zangebaks back in the days when I was still at home. But I do not remember them ever being around when I went home to visit. Did he tire of them and move on to a new favourite? Did she lose interest in making them? I too had forgotten about them and had never made them again since leaving home.

Despite the very fuzzy details, I loved meeting up with an old food friend this week. I loved 'spending time' with my Mom in the kitchen again. I would do anything to have her back.



Zangebak

In the second batch I put in 1/3 cup ground almond and then reduced the flour by that amount. It worked well.
I also tried them in a mini muffin tin yielding at least 24 mini cakes. Baking time should be reduced to closer to 15 minutes. Do not over-bake or you will not get the center chew.

1 cup butter
1 1/3 cups sugar
1 egg
1 tablespoon almond extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
sliced almonds, optional

Heat oven to 350ºF. Cream butter. Beat in sugar. Add egg. Continue to beat. Add almond extract. Beat thoroughly.

Mix flour and baking soda today and then fold into butter mixture.

Divide dough evenly into 12 portions and fill into buttered muffin tins. Push a sprinkling of sliced almonds on the top of each cake.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown. Let stand in muffin tin for 5 minutes. Remove from pan and let cool on rack.

Canadian Celebrity Chefs Event - Were You There? Who Should Have Been?




The first Canadian Celebrity Chefs Event held on Monday evening at the NAC had star power. Not just the well-known names playing on the Food Network, but also a select group of chefs from here in Ottawa that are considered on the top of their game. The idea for the event was the brainchild of NAC's Chef Michael Blackie. Host for the day was the ever energy-buzzed, Kevin Brauch, also from the Food Network.

The full day of culinary demonstrations gave us a hint as to what would be hitting our taste buds throughout the evening's reception. Were you there? Could you imagine it would be like this?

By the way, since you are asking, my favourite dish of the night was the presentation by Chefs Bear and Lyness of lobster and sweetbreads (larger description with picture below). No wishy washy answer from me that "I loved them all and just couldn't pick one". I know what I like. And I loved the balance of flavours, colour and texture. So complex. So bright. I did taste all 8 plates and hung in through to the very last morsel.

There has been quite a build up over the past few months in the foodie world as the details of Monday's event unfolded. There has been much attention for the NAC, the visiting celebrity chefs and the hosting chefs from Ottawa.

As I survey Ottawa's culinary landscape, it struck me that there really was a strong talent pool to pick from to make this a memorable first annual Ottawa event.

I reviewed Ottawa Magazine's Top 10 List of Best Restaurants for 2010 put together by Shawna Wagman last October and here is who was missing from Monday night's lineup.

Castlegarth
Town
The Wellington Gastropub
Fraser Café
Bistro St. Jacques
Absinthe
Taylor's Genuine Food & Wine Bar (same chef at Domus Café)

I reviewed the Gold Medal Plate contenders from last November's regional competition and here is who was missing from Monday night's lineup.

The Urban Pear
Zen Kitchen
Murray Street Kitchen
Les Fougères
Narvarra

I reviewed a running list I have of restaurants that have or have had 'buzz' that do not have mention on Shawna's list or GMP, and here is who was missing from Monday night's lineup, just to name a few.

Benitz Bistro
Farbs Kitchen *
Restaurant Le Baccara *
Sweetgrass Aboriginal Bistro
Restaurant Ei8hteen *
Allium
Black Cat Bistro *
Courtyard Restaurant
Social
Luxe

(* Participants of Juniper's upcoming Duelling Chefs competitions for 2011)

As the names of Brookstreet, Vittoria Trattoria, The Whalesbone Oyster House, Empire Grill, Atelier Restaurant, Beckta Dining and Wine, Juniper Dining and National Arts Centre continue to come to mind in the days ahead, consider that there really is a much, much larger list of great restaurants known for a top-notch dining experience in the Ottawa area. Create your own 'Must Try' list. Venture out. Savour the flavours. This town does have a lot to offer.

And now my question to you. If Chef Blackie tasked you with creating the list of 8 hosting Ottawa chefs, is there a particular name that you want to see on it?



** Monday night's food presentations in the order of my likes **



Ray Bear (MIX, Halifax, NS) | Clifford Lyness (Brookstreet)
Poached Atlantic lobster | Bridge sparkling wine beurre blanc
corn flan + watercress sprouts | black olive purée
Le Coprin mushrooms | sweetbreads with candied fennel
08 Eagle Tree Muscat, Jõst Vineyards, Nova Scotia




Michael Lyon (Hotel Eldorado, Kelowna, BC) | Michael Blackie (NAC)
Sweet grass cold smoked Charlevoix veal | crisp potato girdle
Clarmell on the Rideau feta + sage infused retention
firecracker spotted prawn crisp | Cloud Horse mead-­‐lychee sting
08 Cloud Horse, Meadow Vista Honey Wines, Kelowna, British Columbia




Anthony Walsh (Canoe, Toronto, ON) | Michael Moffatt (Beckta Dining and Wine)
Drunken squab + Newfie screech | tatin of sunchokes | foie gras crepinette
09 Cabernet Franc Sabrevois, Domaine Perrault, Navan, Ontario




David Rocco (Dolce Vita, Toronto, ON) | Cesare Santaguida (Vittoria Trattoria)
Beet risotto | crispy pig cheek | seared Qualicum beach scallop | Granny smith slaw
08 Archangel Pinot Noir Rosé Sparkling VQA, Angels Gate Winery, Niagara, Ontario




Paul Rogalski (ROUGE, Calgary, AB) | Robin Bowen (Empire Grill)
North country bison hash | Quebec goat cheese + cauliflower ravioli
Preserved lemon + rendered bacon hollandaise | ancho chili plum gastrique
07 Cabernet Sauvignon, Vine Dressers,Petit, Verdot Pelee, Island VQA



Mathieu Cloutier (Kitchen Galerie, Montreal, QC) | Marc Lepine (Atelier Restaurant)
Oyster | honey flavor roasted foie gras terrine | marrow bones + chardonnay vinaigrette |
bacon foam
08 Ice Cider, Domaine Pinnacle, Québec




Brad Long (Café Belong, Toronto, ON) | Charlotte Langley (The Whalesbone Oyster House)
Shiitake poached pickerel | beurre noissette | dressed grains + greens
Crispy crème fraiche oyster 08 County Cuvée Pinot Noir VQA, Rosehall Run Vineyards, Prince Edward



Michael Howell (Tempest Restaurant, Wolfville, NS) | Norm Aitken (Juniper Dining)
Transverse Nova Scotia sea bass
crispy seared | citrus cured
cool fennel + citrus salad | warm gold beet purée + hay
brown butter | dulse and beetroot coulis | applewood smoked mussel bridge
09 Reserve L’Acadie, Domaine de Grand Pré, Nova Scotia

Black Cat Bistro - A Celebration Destination



Last weekend we were asked to join in on a birthday celebration at the Black Cat Bistro on Preston at the corner of Norman Street. Although I was thrilled to be going to this great bistro again as a keen foodie, I had no intention of blogging about it this time. It was a birthday celebration after all, and I am hardcore about making a firm delineation between my world of food blogging and the stuff that really matters in life - our family and friends and the people around us. They come first. Birthday girl was getting all the attention, not my camera. No food photos, no paparazzi shots of the restaurant and therefore no blog entry. (The website does have an extensive photo gallery.)

Well then, the main course hits and birthday girl's husband whips out his camera to document the event. His meal and maybe hers. The mister and I followed suit with our phone cameras so they would have a full account of the evening. I find out that he loves to take pictures of their wonderful culinary experiences when dining out! But no plans to food blog it seems. But it opened the door for me to consider sharing the good news. I don't have his pictures, as that was not the objective of their taking. I don't even have the mister's. The words of my account and the two shots I do have will have to carry the day.

The Black Cat Bistro is a great place to celebrate anything. Within eye shot of us there was another birthday gathering of 10 or so people and then a girl's night out of about 8! Lots and lots of 'happy' going on this night.

Owner, Richard Urquart kindly greeted us when we arrived and gave us a spot near the corner of their long wall of windows that face both streets. I worry about being near windows in restaurants in the dead of January's cold snap. Especially when you might be sitting for 2 or 3 hours. Richard had this place so toasty, that its winter comfort was noticeable. Thank you for a warm, cozy Black Cat Bistro on this night! I loved it.

We all shared an Argentinian Altodecreo Melbac picked by birthday girl. I didn't catch the year on the label but it was superb. And probably easily duplicated since I think there was only one selection of that kind on the menu.

To tame the appetite, we were first served bread with butter. I think this may be the best bread I have ever had at a restaurant. (I know readers must hate reading 'best ever' in food blogs as it seems to lack imagination in detail, but this time I really mean it!) The right denseness, softness, chewiness. What a pleasant surprise! I wonder if I can return and just eat bread? (When I went home that night I knew I had to ask Chef Larkin about it, since I loved it so much. And so I hit the Internet airways to get a few details.) Indeed, the bread is baked in-house daily and the sweetness I tasted was the maple in the butter.

Now on to the appetizers!

I went with the full intention of having the Local Heirloom Beet Salad. And I stuck to my plan! It was dressed with Homemade Ricotta, Pinenuts, Basil & Sticky Balsamic dressing.

The birthday girl warmed herself with the Winter Rutabaga Soup with Sour Cream and White Chocolate Espuma, Waupoos Cider Reduction and Gingersnaps.

The two misters took the appetizer special. A pork terrine with a pork belly confit centre. Accompanied by many toasts, apple butter, gherkins and other delightful yummies. (I asked twice about it that night and still forgot. The power of having pictures for recall.) They both raved about it.

Now on to the mains!

I had been craving seafood, so it was an easy choice to go for the Smoked and Pan-seared Escolar (a white fish from Equador) served with Fingerling Potatoes, Brussel Sprouts and Green Beans. The escolar was sourced from Whalesbone's Sustainable Oyster & Fish Supply on Kent Street.




The birthday girl went for a familiar favourite and chose the Seared Atlantic Scallops accompanied by Goat Cheese, Pickled Beets, Spaghetti Squash, Green Beans, Filberts and Vanilla Salt.

My mister has a gutsy palette and chose the Brown Butter Sweetbreads with Butternut Squash Puree, Roasted Cipollini’s, Romanesco, King Mushrooms and Kale.

Her mister took the French bistro classic - "The Black Cat Bistro Signature Steak Frites". The Black Angus Striploin comes with Maitre D’Hotel Butter, Sage Seasoned Frites and Bordelaise Sauce.

Dessert required some negotiation. Apparently there were only two servings remaining of the Classic French Lemon Tart. Of course, the birthday girl would have her pick. I considered it a good marital strategy to let the mister have the second.

The birthday girl's mister already had his sights set on the Carrot Bundt Cake. Served with Cream Cheese, Coconut, Rum Raisin Gelato and Pecans.

My backup plan to the lemon tart was to go for the Traditional Crème Brûlée made with Tahitian Vanilla and served with Seasonal Berries and Mint.



Everyone was very pleased with their meals. The pace was just as we wanted it for a birthday dinner. The atmosphere so suitable for celebration. I love the decor, particularly the modern hanging light fixtures above the tables (check out their website).

We were well looked after on service and appreciated the help in getting answers to our many questions.

I had a chance to pop in to the kitchen to say hello and thank you to the very capable, Patricia Larkin. As their chef for almost a year now at the BCB, the buck stops with her. So reassuring to meet her and feel the vibe - oozing energy and cool as a cucumber. Now that is who I want in charge of my meal prep!

It was nice to end our evening in conversation with Richard as we prepared our exit and reminisced about a night out that brought a special birthday to its close.

Black Cat Bistro
428 Preston Street (at the corner of Norman St.)
Ottawa, Ontario
613.569.9998
website: www.blackcatbistro.ca
Twitter: BlackCatOttawa

Mon to Sat: 5 - 10 pm

Black Cat Bistro on Urbanspoon

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